Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its essence: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
